Before makeup school, I had no idea there was an ideal lip shape. Apparently, your lips are most balanced when the upper and lower lips are equal in size, or thickness, says Prior. If they’re not, you can use your knowledge of highlights and shadows to re-contour them.
Step 1: Apply foundation to your entire lip, says Napoleon Perdis. Not only does this help remove the natural pigments of your lips for truer lipstick colors, but it can also help you realize where your liplines actually are.
Step 2: Using a white eyeliner pencil, very softly feather the pencil over the natural contour of the lip. Or use the pencil to make lips fuller or thinner by drawing it past your natural lipline or within it.
Step 3: Redo the line with a lip pencil in the color of your lipstick.
Step 4: Apply lipstick with a lip brush in a downward motion. So, from your cupid’s bow to each outer corner, then from your outer corner to the center of your lower lip. This ensures an even application of the product, says Hawker.
Step 5: Apply a light shade of base foundation around the new lip line, blending to a soft edge with a lip brush.
Remember, light colors reflect light, so using lighter lip colors will give a fuller appearance. Dark colors absorb light, so they will make lips look smaller/thinner. Finally, try this popular trick used on Victoria’s Secret Angels to give the illusion of a fuller pout: Apply a dab of gloss to the top part of your Cupid’s bow and to the center of the bottom of your lip.